How to make roots on cannabis cuttings
This guide shows you how to make roots on cannabis cuttings correctly each time. It gives a new grower all the steps, from the selection of a mother plant to a clone that you can transplant in 14 days.
Purpose and scope
A clone is a cutting from a plant. The cutting makes roots and becomes a new plant with the same genetics as the first plant. Cloning does not use flowers or seeds. You make roots on a piece of stem, and you do not germinate a seed.
Cloning gives each plant in a batch the same genetics as a known plant with good results. This plant is the mother plant. The same genetics gives the same speed of growth, the same yield and the same chemical properties. As a result, all the plants in the batch complete the crop cycle at the same time. The yield is the same as the yield of the last batch. Thus almost all commercial growers use clones and not seeds.
In a propagation room that operators control correctly, the rooting rate is frequently approximately 90 percent or more[1]. Operators use this rate as a target. You can transplant the cuttings after approximately 10 to 14 days[3].
This guide is for a grower who wants to make a copy of a plant with the traits that the grower wants. The grower also wants a batch in which all the plants are the same, each time. Use the light acclimation guide with this guide to move new clones into stronger light. Use the IPM hygiene guide with this guide to keep the room clean.
Definitions
This guide uses these six terms many times. Make sure that you know the terms before you continue.
Evidence and limitations
We want each paper to be correct. Thus we examine each paper for information that is not solid. This information comes from the view of one grower, from a small number of sources, or from grower methods that have no controlled test. We identify this information, and we do not show it as solid.
Frequently there is no paper for the decision that you must make. Then we use the reports of other growers and the methods that work in the rooms that we know. This information can help you, but it is not the result of a laboratory test. Use the methods that work for your plants, for your room and for your meters. If a table does not agree with your crop, use the data from your crop and record the difference.
- A clone has the same genetics as the mother plant. A somatic mutation, which is not frequent, can cause a difference.
- High humidity and a low light intensity decrease the stress on a cutting until the cutting makes roots.
- Dirty tools and wet media where the water does not move increase the risk of soft rot and of pathogens.
- Procedures with IBA gel or powder, and procedures to open the dome vents, in commercial rooms for propagation.
- The target for a room with correct control is a rooting rate of 90% or more. Genetics do not make sure of this rate.
- Apply a feed with a low EC after the roots show. An EC that is too high causes damage to soft cuttings.
- Air embolism as the one primary cause of soft stems. Drying of the cutting usually has the largest effect.
- Tables with one number of days to roots that ignore the cultivar and the environment.
If you find an error, make a report. We will correct it. Make the report on GitHub, with the name of the paper and the information that is incorrect. If you have a source, include it: Make a report of an accuracy problem. The regulations, labels and licenses of your area always override each procedure in these papers. The label weak in a paper shows the points where the risk of an error is highest.
Select and cut shoots
A good clone starts with a good shoot. Select vertical shoots from the top and middle parts of the canopy. Each shoot must be a minimum of 3 mm (0.1 in) thick and 15 cm (6 in) long. Thicker shoots that receive good light have larger energy reserves. These shoots make roots more quickly than thin shoots in the shade of the inner canopy[2]. The thickness of the shoot and the color of the leaves are accurate indicators of the root growth of the cutting[2].
Apply sufficient water to the mother plant on the day before you cut the shoots. Then the cuttings are full of water and have turgor, and tissue that shows wilt does not easily make roots. Use a sterilized blade. At the start of the light cycle, cut each shoot at 45° directly below a node. Put each cutting immediately in a container with a weak solution. Make sure that the surface of the end is clean and that the end does not stay in the air.
- If you cut the stem at 45°, the surface at the end of the stem is larger than if you cut the stem flat. Thus more cells can become root cells.
- If the end of the stem dries in the air, a bubble of air goes into the stem. This bubble is an air embolism, and it stops the flow of water up the stem. Keep the end wet from the time that you cut the stem.
- Sterilize the blade between mother plants. Thus you do not move disease from one plant to the next.[7]
Rooting hormone and propagation cubes
A cutting has no roots at the start. Thus you apply a rooting hormone to start the production of roots. A plant hormone is a chemical signal that gives instructions to the cells. The active ingredient in rooting hormones is usually IBA (indole-3-butyric acid), an auxin, which is a type of plant growth signal[4]. In the stem, the plant changes IBA to IAA, and IAA is the signal that starts root growth[5]. A rooting hormone is available as a gel or as a liquid.
Cut the stem again at 45° immediately before you put the cutting in the cube. Thus the end of the stem has new tissue. Apply rooting hormone gel to the bottom 1–2 cm (0.4–0.8 in) of the stem. Put the stem 1.5–2.5 cm (0.6–1.0 in) deep in a soaked cube. Push the cube lightly against the stem, but do not compress the cube. To do the lift test, lift the stem carefully, and make sure that the cube moves up with the stem.
- 1Soak the cube firstSoak the rockwool or peat cubes in clone feed for a minimum of 15 minutes. Let the cubes drain freely. Do not compress the cubes to remove the water. If you compress a cube, you remove the air from the cube.
- 2Cut the stem againCut the stem again at 45° immediately before you put the cutting in the cube. Thus the tissue at the end is clean and has no air embolism.
- 3Apply hormoneFor gel, put the bottom end of the stem approximately 1–2 cm (0.4–0.8 in) deep in the gel. For a liquid or alcohol hormone, soak the bottom end of the stem for approximately 30 seconds.
- 4Put the stem in the cube and do the lift testPut the stem 1.5–2.5 cm (0.6–1.0 in) deep in the cube. Lift the stem carefully. The cube must move up with the stem.
After you cut the stem for the last time, put the cutting in the cube in approximately 30 seconds or less. When the stem end is in the air for a longer time, the risk of an air bubble increases. The bubble stops the uptake of water, and the cutting stops its growth.
Dome, humidity, temperature and light
A cutting with no roots cannot pull water up the stem. Thus the cutting gets water from the humidity of the air until the roots start. The dome holds the humidity around the cutting. As a result, water goes directly from the air into the leaves while the stem makes roots.
Keep the air temperature at approximately 24–26°C (75–79°F). At the start, keep the humidity high (85–95% RH) in a closed dome. Then decrease the humidity in steps when the roots become longer[3]. Put a heat mat below the tray to keep the cube temperature at 22–24°C (72–75°F). The cube temperature has more effect on the speed of root growth than the air temperature has[6].
VPD shows how much the air pulls water from the surface of a leaf. Air with less humidity and a higher temperature pulls more water from the leaf. When the VPD is higher, the surface of a leaf dries more quickly. Keep the VPD low (0.3–0.5 kPa) while the cuttings have no roots. Then increase the VPD in steps when the roots become longer. The clone can then replace the water that it transpires.
Keep the light intensity low in the first days, at approximately 60–100 PPFD (the intensity of the light at the plant). Increase the intensity to 150–200 PPFD at the time of hardening off[3]. Measure the intensity with the dome in position, because the plastic decreases the light intensity at the cutting below it.
| Phase | Days | RH | VPD (kPa) | Light (PPFD) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Initial healing | 1–4 | 85–95% | 0.3–0.5 | 60–100 |
| Start of root growth | 5–7 | 80–85% | 0.5–0.7 | 80–120 |
| Middle of root growth | 8–10 | 70–80% | 0.6–0.8 | 100–150 |
| Hardening off | 11–14 | 65–75% | 0.8–1.0 | 150–200 |
A low airflow in the room is good. Do not point a fan directly at clones that have no roots. These clones cannot replace the water that they transpire. Air that flows directly on the clones dries them and quickly causes wilt.
14-day cloning procedure
A large part of the work in cloning is to know when you must not touch the tray.
Days 1–4: Keep the vents fully closed. Do not touch the tray. The humidity in the dome makes the cutting close its leaf pores. Then the cutting uses its energy to make roots.
Days 5–7: It is usually necessary to apply water for the first time. Use the weight of the tray to find the time. Apply water when the weight of the tray is 40–50% less than its weight on Day 0. Do not apply water when the weight loss is less than 30%. Rot starts in a cube that is permanently wet[8]. The color of the cube changes from dark brown to light brown, and this change is the same signal.
Start the clone feed at a low EC, approximately 0.6–1.2 mS/cm (the value is different for each product). Increase the EC only after you see roots. An EC of approximately 1.5 mS/cm can cause damage to soft cuttings. Keep the pH of the feed at 5.5–6.0 and the temperature of the water at 20–22°C (68–72°F).
From day 7, do one burp each day. Start to hold the vents open. Lift one cube at the edge of the tray and examine the cube for white roots.
On day 11, do the test for hardening off. Lift the dome from each tray and wait 10 minutes. If less than 5 clones in a tray show wilt, keep the dome off. If 5 or more clones in a tray show wilt, put the dome on the tray again. Do the test again on the next day. Transplant the clones at approximately day 14.
| Day | Task | Items to examine |
|---|---|---|
| 1–4 | Keep the dome closed. Do not touch the tray. | The cuttings have turgor and show no wilt. |
| 5–7 | Use the tray weight to find the time for the first water. Start to open the vents. | The color of the cube changes from dark brown to light brown. The weight loss of the tray is 40–50%. |
| 7+ | Do one burp each day. Lift one cube at the edge of the tray. | The first white roots show. |
| 11 | Do the test for hardening off. Keep the dome off for 10 minutes. | If less than 5 clones in a tray show wilt, keep the dome off. |
| 14 | Transplant the keepers | The roots are a minimum of 2–3 cm (0.8–1.2 in) long on more than one side of the cube. The cube stays in one piece. |
Troubleshooting
Most problems with clones have a small number of causes. Each cause shows different symptoms, thus you can find the cause quickly.
| Symptom | Possible cause | Task |
|---|---|---|
| Much wilt in days 1–2 | The RH in the dome is too low, the light intensity is too high, or the heat mat is off. | Make sure that the RH is a minimum of 85%. Decrease the PPFD. Adjust the cube temperature to 22–24 °C (72–75 °F). |
| Mold or slime on the cubes | Water stays in the tray, the hygiene is bad, or the cubes are too warm. | Remove the water that stays in the tray. Touch the cubes only with gloves. Keep the cubes at less than 26 °C (79 °F). |
| Leaf tips that are dry and brown | The feed EC or the VPD is too high (the air is too dry). | Decrease the EC by 0.2–0.3. Increase the RH. Open the vents more slowly. |
| Yellow leaves before the roots show | The mother plant had a nutrient deficiency, or the feed EC is too low. | Examine the nutrition of the mother plant. In the next cycle, increase the EC by a small quantity. |
| White mold with fibers in the dome | The humidity is too high and there is no air exchange. | Do more burps. Always do the hygiene procedures for the dome. |
| Irregular rooting | The moisture of the cubes or the quantity of hormone is different between cubes. | Soak all the cubes equally. Put each cutting in the gel to the same depth. |
Sterilize the tools in 71% isopropyl alcohol for a minimum of 2 minutes (or in chlorine dioxide for a minimum of 180 seconds). Touch the cubes only with gloves. In a propagation room, tools and hands move disease from one cutting to the next. Hands without gloves move algae and pathogens[7]. Good hygiene prevents the organisms of damping-off disease and root rot. These organisms kill all the cuttings in a tray[7].
Expected results and limitations
A first target of 90 percent rooting is possible. Operators who do cloning frequently get 95 percent or more[1]. The roots show in 10 to 14 days. If a cutting has no roots after 21 days, there is a problem. Do an investigation of the cause. Do not wait for the cutting.
Some cuttings do not give a satisfactory result. At transplant, you select the cuttings to keep and the cuttings to discard. This culling is part of the procedure.
A keeper has strong roots and light green tops. A reject has only one to three weak roots. A kill has no roots, and you discard it.
Make 15 to 40 percent more cuttings than the necessary number of plants. Thus the number of plants is sufficient after you discard the weak cuttings.
Some cultivars make roots more slowly. For these cultivars, make the cuttings some days before the usual date. Thus you can transplant the cuttings at the correct date. Record the tray weights, the EC and pH, and the rooting rate for each batch. Then, in the next cycle, you know the cultivars that you must cut before the usual date. You also know if there is a drift in the room conditions.
- 90% is the minimum, not the maximum. A new grower who gets 90% has a good result, and an adjusted room gets 95% or more. If the rate is less than 80%, the environment or the hygiene is incorrect.
- Discard all the weak clones at transplant. When you discard the weak clones at the start, the batch keeps its uniformity.
- The environment has the largest effect. The humidity, the cube temperature and the light have more effect than the hormone product that you use. Adjust these items first.
After the clones have roots and you complete the hardening off, the next task is to move the clones into stronger light. Do not cause stress to the clones. Refer to the light acclimation guide. Use the IPM hygiene procedure to keep the propagation room clean from the first day.
References
- Caplan, D., Stemeroff, J., Dixon, M., & Zheng, Y. (2018). Vegetative propagation of cannabis by stem cuttings: effects of leaf number, cutting position, rooting hormone, and leaf tip removal. Canadian Journal of Plant Science, 98(5), 1126-1132. https://doi.org/10.1139/cjps-2018-0038
- Esposito, L.G.A., et al. (2026). Analysis of Marijuana (Cannabis sativa L.) Cuttings: Morphological and Colorimetric Traits as Predictors for Optimization of Vegetative Reproduction. Plants, 15(3), 440. https://doi.org/10.3390/plants15030440
- Kim, B., Hahm, S., Lee, Y.J., Bok, G., & Park, J. (2025). Light, Temperature, and Relative Humidity Influence the Adventitious Rooting of Cannabis Stem Cuttings. Horticultural Science and Technology, 43(4), 480-493. https://doi.org/10.7235/HORT.20250043
- Landis, H., et al. (2022). Impact of Indole-3-butyric Acid Concentration and Formulation and Propagation Environment on Rooting Success of 'I3' Hemp by Stem Cuttings. HortTechnology, 32(3), 321-330. https://doi.org/10.21273/HORTTECH05016-21
- Fattorini, L., Veloccia, A., Della Rovere, F., D'Angeli, S., Falasca, G., & Altamura, M.M. (2017). Indole-3-butyric acid promotes adventitious rooting in Arabidopsis thaliana thin cell layers by conversion into indole-3-acetic acid and stimulation of anthranilate synthase activity. BMC Plant Biology, 17, 121. https://doi.org/10.1186/s12870-017-1071-x
- Lopez, R.G., & Runkle, E.S. (2008). Photosynthetic daily light integral during propagation influences rooting and growth of cuttings and subsequent development. HortScience, 43(7), 2052-2059. https://doi.org/10.21273/HORTSCI.43.7.2052
- Punja, Z.K., Tirajoh, A., Collyer, D., & Ni, L. (2023). Biological control of Fusarium oxysporum causing damping-off and Pythium myriotylum causing root and crown rot on cannabis (Cannabis sativa L.) plants. Canadian Journal of Plant Pathology, 45(3), 245-264. https://doi.org/10.1080/07060661.2023.2172082
- Lopez, R.G. & Currey, C.J. (Michigan State University Extension). Moisture management during vegetative cutting propagation. MSU Extension / Greenhouse floriculture. (source not from a journal, for example from a manufacturer) https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/moisture_management_during_vegetative_cutting_propagation
- Liu, Y., et al. (2023). Photosynthetic Acclimation of Shade-Grown Soybean Seedlings to a High-Light Environment. Plants/Frontiers in Plant Science (shade-to-high-light photoinhibition study). https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10305168/
Each citation in the paper, for example [1], refers to an item in this list. Each item is a primary source or an instruction from an authority, unless the item shows a different type. The results of cannabis tissue culture change much with the genotype. Before you use the dilutions, hormone doses and local regulations, make sure that they agree with the primary sources.